There are not many words able to describe this place. Built during the IX Century by the Syunik bishops on a natural basalt fortification, it was mainly used to store important reliquaries, but came to became one of the area busiest centers. Walls were added in the XII Century, to host chambers, refectories, storage room and libraries.
Over the centuries, it was attacked, destroyed and rebuild several times. Attacks and raid were carried out by the Seljuk Turks, by the Mongols, by Timur Lane, by the Persians. Guys, you didn't really try too hard in finding an "inexpugnable" locations, it seems.
Khachkar (խաչքար) are carved stone crosses. Undoubtley one of the most recognizable symbols of the Church of Armenia and Armenia itself, they can be found everywhere. I must say, their elaborate motifs remind me of Celtic art.
This small mausoleum above is the tomb of Surp Grigor Tatevatsi (Գրիգոր Տաթևացի), 1346-1409, who has become one of the most important Armenian symbols.
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Still evidently having a blast. |
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The refectory. |
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The main church is still used. |
The biggest difference I perceived, visiting this marvel, is that we were free to explore it. In Italy, all tourists are mostly considered as potential avatars of Shiva the Destroyer, as if they were secretly hellbent on damaging every single relic of the past, here there seemed to be no specific rule (apart for a couple of unstable areas that were sensibly closed). After all, this place has been raided by the Seljuk Turks, by the Mongols, by the Persian and by Timur. What can a couple of clumsy tourists possibly do? I, of course, agree in protecting delicate works of art (paintings, frescoes, some statues), but walls or khachkar that withstood centuries or warfare and weather?
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The ancient and beautiful Armenian script. |
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In case you forgot this is a Christian place. |
Outside the main walled complex, there was a small building, where the oil mill wheels were kept. They were huge and well preserved. |
In case you forgot this is a Christian place. |
And then... you can always check the view.
This is the view enjoyed from the monastery. I repeat it, Armenia, you are a painting. Well, this was fun, time to get some rest and food. Time to head for the nearby B&B.
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