Mestia

Mestia, a small town in the Svaneti historical region of Georgia, has a population of roughly 2600, mainly Svans, a cultural and linguistic subgroup of the Georgians. Chief characteristic, as in all others Svanetian villages are the koshki (კოშკო), traditional defensive stone towers dotting the hills among houses. The Svans are a proud people, inhabiting one of the most inaccessible areas of Georgia and in fact, Svaneti was never conquered by invading forces. Of the various kartvelian languages, Svan (which is not usually written) is the most distant from Georgian.

 

In more than one way, Mestia reminds me of some Italian mountains comuni (municipalities). The architecture is typical of any mountainous and cold regions and having been built on hilly terrain, there are many some sudden drops over streams.

What was mostly surprising, however, is the Mestia Historical-Ethnographic Museum. A very modern-looking building, it one of the best of Georgia. It showcases an impressive number of items, ranging from coins to everyday tools, from weapons to furniture and it has an incredible section on books and scrolls, all written in Nuskhuri, a script that, along with Asomtavruli, was mainly used for religious text and iconography. Nuskhuri first appeared in the IX Century and eventually replaced Asomtavruli.

  

As for the night, I'm staying at the Svan-Ski guesthouse, right in the middle of the town. Marina and her husband, who both speak good English, set up a cozy and welcoming place. The rooms are warm, the tea free, the shower amazing. I'll definitely spend two very good days here.