Last day in Iași

After the incredible technology museum, I was a bit tired and hungry, so I took a friend's advice and went to Acaju, a little cozy cafe not far from the Palace of Culture, where people play board games or simply relax. Free wi-fi, of course, and nobody saw the contactless card as a weird alien artefact, unlike in Italy. I stayed there a couple of hours, enjoying coffee and waffles, deciding what to do for the evening.

I went back to the hostel. This place merits a mention, because it is weird. I already mentioned how I didn't see the owners when I arrived. Turns out they are never there. They are just a presence online (most of the times), and the only other persons I have seen have been the occasional patrons (never tourists, always locals) and two maid who keep the place in the pristine condition it is. Even the payment didn't happen "live", they have a mailbox in the common room with envelopes and a pen, so you can put money inside. Not the best from a receipt point of view, but the hostel has many positive reviews, so it's just a them being weird.

The lack of live personnel created some weird situations. At some point, the second day, wi-fi stopped working. Having data on my iPhone anyway (never ever traveling without, fuck romanticism), I contacted them, and explained that I couldn't connect anymore - the password got constantly rejected. So we chatted a bit, until...

 

Niiiice, Big Brother Hostel... So they don't go to the hostel but they are always there, somehow. Creepiness aside (and after having checked that there were no cameras in the rooms and bathrooms), he directed me to the router, where I rebooted it and solved the issue.

 

This aside, I can't stress enough how clean this place is. Even the shower is way above average. Usually, hostel showers lack pressure or water isn't very hot. THIS shower has enough pressure to dig a damn hole in a hill and goes to cold to sun temperature very easily. Once you learn how to harness its power, it'a smooth ride.

 

After a shower, I went out to eat. A restaurant called Casa Lavric isn't far and it was part of the advices a friend gave me. It turned out a bit weird to find...

 

I will find you!!

 

After a couple of turns, in the end, I found the place. But fun was yet to start. I entered and a waiter approached me. I asked a table for one and...

«We are closed.»

«Closed?» «Yes, closed.»

 

He told me this while being fully dressed for the job, with all the lights on, with music and voices coming from an adjacent room. Something told me it wasn't worth to insist. When I later told this to my friend, the wise answer was «God knows what mafia meeting club was going on after you left». Most likely. So I had to find something else, as I was becoming quite hungry, but it was already 21:30. After having reached the city centre again, I entered in the first open place I found. The menu was very generic, but they had some tasty-looking ciorbă, which I ordered, but the waited told me they didn't have them now. So I asked «Anything typical Romanian or Moldavian»?

The guy advised me a pizza.

 

«This one could be considered Moldavian, as it has very Moldavian flavours on it.»

 

I was tired and hungry. My defences were lower and I couldn't be bothered looking for another place. So I raised the white flag and I accepted. Funnily enough, it turned out to be quite good, with a strong goat cheese, onion and sausage. And the wine was good. After eating I discovered I was basically next to that place I went the first night, La Bazã. It's cheap and nice, so I spent the evening there again, wondering (among the other things) how can you ask this cocktail to a bar woman without things going downhill.

 

Ștefan Procopiu Science and Technique Museum

The last museum I visited in the Palace of Culture was the Ștefan Procopiu Science and Technique Museum, and it was so incredible it cannot be described. The large collection of items includes a wonderful section on sound recording and reproduction, typing and some early computers. It's a heaven of cogs and wheels, and I'll leave the photos to speak for themselves. 

 

Looks better than that rare Cramps picture disc you have

 

A music box

 

A music box disc

 

Another music box disc

 

Large music box

 

Detail of the music box cylinder

 

Music punch card

 

I have no clue how this works

 

Not to mention this

 

Well, this seems complicated

 

I take it back

 

No, really

 

WHAT THE HELL

 

Gramophones collection

 

Mad scientist vol. I

 

Mad scientist vol. II

 

Yes, computers, less powerful than what you're using

 

As you can see for yourself, the exhibit is incredible (and there were more, I just didn't want to overdo it). Truly, if you happen in this city, you should NOT miss this.

The Palace of Culture and its museums.

Being one of the most characteristic buildings of Iasi, I couldn't skip a visit to the Palace of Culture. Built in neo-gothic style at the beginning of the XX Century, it initially hosted the County Law Court and other public institutions. It looks old, but its was equipped with the most advanced technological features of the time, such as electric lighting, (pneumatic) heating, ventilation system, thermostat, vacuum cleaners, and even a fireproof coating on the wood, which spared the building despite the fourteen fires that struck it. Additionally, some rooms were decorated using a special material licensed by Henri Coandă, under the name of bois-ciment and imitating the oak wood. If you don't know this guy (Coandă), I suggest to read something about him, as he was also a pioneer in aerodynamics.

 

 

 

 

 

 

It hosts four museums: the Art Museum, Moldavia's History Museum, the Ethnographic Museum of Moldavia and "Ștefan Procopiu" Science and Technique Museum (this last one was so amazing that it deserves its own entry). The history museum was interesting, with a good collection of weapons, tools and items of everyday use through the ages.

 

 

 

 

The Art museum was OK but not spectacular. The ethnographic museum was better, with lots of wooden machines and structures to help agriculture.

 

 

 

 

Last, the Ștefan Procopiu Science and Technique Museum. The other three were nice, but this one certainly gets the cookie. Named after the famed physicist, it will be the subject for the next entry.

That architecture...

Well, it's not new that I love communist architecture, especially when it's so nicely mixed with that 60's science-fiction feel...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Religious pilgrimage

This time the cultural trip will be a bit shorter than the usual. First because I'm in a smaller city, second because I want to balance relax and culture. And the weather is still fugly, so I need to distract myself with something else than churches. Anyway ket's start with the first. Mănăstirea Trei Ierarhi is a seventeenth-century monastery and it's name means Monastery of the Three Hierarchs, because it's dedicated to Basil of Caesarea, Gregory of Nazianzus, and John Chrysostom). It is famous for it's beautifully engraved outer walls, which include motives with over 30 different motives, a mix of Eastern and Western influences (Armenian, Georgian, Persian, Arabian, Ottoman, Gothic and Renaissance).

It was, unfortunately, forbidden to take photos inside, where some Romanian important figures are buried, among which Alexandru Ioan Cuza, the first ruler of the united Romanian principalities. Next was Mănăstirea Golia, so called because it was erected by boyar Ioan Golia in the VI Century. It was then rebuilt (bigger) by Prince Vasile Lupu in the VII Century, and completed by his son Ştefăniţă. Main characteristic is the tall walls that completely surround the monastery, with a tall tower at the main gate.

Here it was possible taking pictures and I'm thankful for this, as the inside is particularly beautiful, with the usual colourful frescoes and elaborate accessories, so typical of Orthodox churches.

Close to the Palace of Culture there is also Biserica Sfântul Nicolae Domnesc (Saint Nicholas Princely Church), which is very important from a historic point of view, being one of the oldest Iași, but inside it wasn't the most interesting. If I have to cite something I don't like of orthodox churches, is the annexed shop at the entrances very often inside the church.

There is also an Armenian church, but apparently it is permanently closed. And it's not like I haven't seen my fair share of them. And this is the end of Churches Ahoy, because I need a goddamn hot coffee right now.